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The Project Stampede
Ultra-Pede
& Thoughts on Upgrading
Complete Upgrade List

The Project Stampede
Ultra-Rusty
Traxxas Rustler
Upgraded

Wow, this has been a fun transformation since December of 2003.  In reality I have only been modifying my Traxxas Stampede for about a two years due in part to the fact that a couple of those years I was building a new house and the Stampede set idle in a box during a long series of moves.  Although I would love to own a $1500 golden plated aircraft aluminum Stampede, I think it is almost a waste. The Traxxas Stampede is so good in it's original state and for very little money it can be a great RC platform for just about any type of fun - bashing, racing (to a point), and projects. Plus, I just beat the heck out of my Traxxas Stampede so a $1500 Pede would be a waste on me.  I would love to also try my hand at a Traxxas E-Rustler for an Ultra-Rusty and apparently will now have the opportunity with the acquisition of a Traxxas Rustler on Ebay for very little coin.

The Project Stampede Ultra-Pede represents an absolute ton of testing, time and effort reaching for the magic combination of performance and hard core durability and continues to be tweaked on a weekly basis.  My Project Stampede Ultra-Pede innovations include the best, most flexible, and easiest Wide-Pede conversion available, easy front and rear shock tower braces, dual front camber links or Jato camber links, super duty Traxxas Jato rear camber links as well as a host of other innovations, discoveries and upgrades.  I believe, the Ultra-Pede to be one of the most durable modified Stampedes anywhere and "test" it's durability almost daily.  I have found that even when pushed to an absolute abusive level, breakage remains extremely infrequent and overall performance is very very good.  My motto is that I would rather have an Traxxas Stampede that works, rather than have a Stampede I have to work on.

There are some truly great sites out there for upgrading the Traxxas Stampede - for example Ultimate RC focuses on racing performance and MisBehavin RC focuses on the how to basic maintenance.  My focus with building the Ultra-Pede and this site is on using low cost modifications to deliver an almost indestructible bashing platform for the average RC nerd - namely me.  I have made an attempt (though not always possible) to use Traxxas stock parts or at least widely available parts for all my modifications - I believe Traxxas parts to be some of the best in the RC industry, so why use something else unless you have to.  Some of the mods may require some skill, ingenuity, creativity, and craftsmanship but most should be fairly simple and straight forward.

Update - March - May 2006
The Traxxas Stampede has been one of the most fun hobbies that I have yet to divert my attention to for an extended period of time.  That said I almost feel at times like I have done it all, then I think "what about a Swiffer-Pede" or "Ultra-Pede", or lately home make carbon fiber camber links and tie rods.  Funny how the Stampede just keeps you going and going.  I picked up one of the new Novak GTB 4.5R systems and am now tinkering away to find the best gearing, batteries, and setup for that project.  I can say that the Project Stampede Ultra-Pede now is very Ultra and supper nutty fast.  Maybe I should call it the Super-Ultra-Pede. The Paint tray body has been a hoot and is simply indestructible, and totally freaks people out. I am officially at the point where I either need to tackle another electric truck project.  The Ultra-Pede is about as durable as a brick and faster than should be legal, so I was thinking of doing the ultimate light weight Rustler (I think I can better even Jang's Rusty - maybe), or a full aluminum extended Stampede or Rustler from FLM (Fast Lane Machining) or doing a Ultra-Rusty or wait for an electric Jato ... who knows.  What it will depend on is the charity of my wonderful wife who has been extremely supportive of my little RC hobby, the odd credit card charges, trashed kitchen (my preferred shop - with a glass of wine), my incessant project'ing during any free moment.  I have talked with my dog extensively about adding another RC to the family for him to chase and he is all for it.  Unfortunately, he tends to agree with whoever has the peanut butter treats and that happened to be my wife.  Until the other day when I picked up a Rusty on Ebay among other little juicy Ultra-Pede additions such as a TQ3 three channel transmitter and receiver - insert evil laugh.

My Upgrade Philosophy I am not a professional track racer, I'm just a guy that loves to terrorize the neighborhood, parks, friends and family get togethers and hit the local dirt track on occasion just to keep myself in check (and freak out the other RC'ers). I am the kind of person that would rather wait until something breaks before replacing it, however am all for making preventative upgrades to avoid cascading breakages or cascading maintenance (i.e. blowing off a shock cap and having to deal with the clean-up or adding a bumper to prevent breakage.)  I am also all for no-cost upgrades.. hey why not, its free.

I tend to focus upgrades on strength and long-term durability rather than reducing weight and increasing performance to a point that you spend more time maintaining the RC instead of playing/using it. Some of these guys will hop-up there RC's to a point where they burn through this or that part every other run...fast but not fun for long. 

What is it with that beat to hell stock body?
Again, don't replace it until it breaks.  And I kinda like it because, people are all like well it doesn't have a decent body so it can't possible go fast.  Then I run them over and blow by.  Actually, the Mili-Pede and Snow-Pede bodies were run for quite a while and still are when hard hard bashing is at hand. So I have kind of "saved" the stock body a lot of wear and tear.  Under normal circumstances, there is now way it would not have lasted this long.  I have strengthened the body by gluing is body supports and trimmed off some damage at the rear. Although above is my recent Baja-Pede body made out of a mini-plastic paint tray from Lowes for under $2 and is the best body I have ever had for the Stampede.

Plastic Rules
I don't go for the titanium and aluminum stuff unless I really think it's necessary. Frankly it's just way to freaking expensive and in my opinion the cost versus performance is usually inversely proportional - i.e. you pay more for less performance and usually more weight.  The titanium and aluminum bits are neat but in my opinion, simply eye candy for the wealthier RC'ers out there.  The exception being Swami's Wheelie bar which now features the same full x-brace coverage as my ABS plastic custom transmission and motor cover and will pay for itself quickly in un-broken parts just like the RPM bumper.  If you want to go the metal route, FLM has some gorgeous kits that are pretty much plug and play, however I could buy nearly three Stampedes or Rustlers for the price of putting one of those together.  I guess my advice here is don't let people egg you on to buy into the "metal is better than plastic thing".  Plastic is cheap, highly durable, easily modifiable, and is about the best material available for the RC application.

Don't Get Discouraged While Upgrading
Remember the Stampede is one heck of an RC truck right out of the box, so don't knock what Traxxas has put together in the Stampede.  Although some of you may be able to duplicate my Ultra-Pede in one trip to you hobby shop, most won't.  I think a lot of people get disappointed and discouraged when upgrading and after seeing guys/gals out there with super upgraded Stampedes and other RC cars. Unless you are just insane into the hobby, I think it takes most people around a  year or two to get all the standard upgrades done.  Whether it is a time, talent, or money limitations, just relax, there are tons of easy no cost or low cost upgrades that you can make.

In my mind there are only a handful of preventative upgrades that your should absolutely make right away. However, everyone wants to do all the upgrades right away. I think NOT taking the time to do some real long-term testing (5-10 bashing sessions minimum) and see how each upgrade affects your vehicle is a bad idea for several reasons:

1. You learn more by seeing how each component/upgrade added changes the behavior of the vehicle.  If you do a bunch of upgrades at once you may misinterpret which upgrade made the car perform better/worse.  This is how the pros upgrade, that way they can problem shoot why the vehicle is not performing as expected or tune for certain conditions.
2. As you get into the hobby you will find that some of your most enjoyable hobby moments will be planning, looking forward to, performing, and testing the upgrades.
3. Don't get in a hurry to spend money. This hobby can get really, really expensive fast, so take your time and enjoy each upgrade.
4. No matter what parts, pieces, and upgrades you have planned in your head as the ultimate RC car, you may change your mind later after some of the upgrades start to increase the performance, looks, and durability of the RC race and talk with others who actually have some hobby experience.  You may find that you really don't need some of the upgrades you thought you had to have (yeah!! - extra money for motors)
5. If you make all the upgrades at once, I think you are missing the whole point of "a hobby"...it should be a long-term thing.
6. If you don't have time for testing each upgrade, you probably don't have time for this hobby and probably won't enjoy it for very long.
   

So You Wanna Build a Project Stampede Ultra-Pede?  Here is the parts list more or less

Recommended Upgrades - Now you can mix this up as much as you want, but here is what I am recommending  to limit damage/expense and maximize fun. The order is how I would do things now if I were to do it again.  I have broken each "phase" into approximately $20-$30 for each phase (some less some more).  See more about each of these in the various Project & Hop-ups Categories throughout this site - cost are estimates only

Phase 1 - Bone Stock - Let the expenditures begin.

Pre-First Run - Something to do while the batteries are charging.

• RPM Bumper - $5 (a must have item, if you buy nothing else, buy this)
• Shock Pre-load spacers - $0-5 for parts (8mm rear - 4mm front install them there are in the parts bag) remember big spacer for jumps and bashing, little or no spacers for increased handling and increased articulation adn less flipping during turns.
• Easy-Pull body clips - $0-5 for parts (stops you from going insane)
• Easy Off Gear Cover - I wish I would have done this so much earlier.  Ohh, the agony.
• Supercharge that Stocker - $0-5 for parts (just like it says)
• Routine Maintenance Checklist - $0-5 for parts (do this every single time you use the RC)
• Washer backed motor mount - $0-5 for parts
• Make it easy, measure you antenna length and write it with a permanent marker on the receiver or better yet on a piece of paper and put it inside the receiver. That way if you shear off an antenna, you can just cut a new one and re-attach it. You will thank me later.

Phase 2  - Wow, goes pretty fast and I hit lots of stuff - hard.

• Traxxas Aluminum Shock Caps - $10 (Once on - never had a problem)
• Shock Strengthening - Add two Silicon O rings per shock  to gently limit shock over travel - $0-5 for parts (insurance against breakage)
• 50 wt shock oil - $5 (stiffens up the shocks)
• RPM 2 Stage Shock Piston - Kind of a pain to install but so worth it (go with Medium with the 50Wt Oil)
• Custom transmission and motor cover - $0-5 for ABS hobby Plastic  (insurance against breakage)
• Waterproofing receiver, servo - $0 (insurance against breakage) See lubrication made easy
• Also see Snowproofing your car - RCCARACTION.com

Phase 3 - Starting to understand the the Stampede is durable but not indestructible.

• RPM Gear Cover - $5 (insurance against breakage)
• Broke servo gear with a bad hit - Stock servo gear replaced with Futaba FS-3003 gears - $5 (cheaper than a new servo) - if you haven't broke it yet, you will, buy them now.
• Easy-Pull battery strap - $0-5 for parts (stops you from going insane)
• Floppy Antenna Fix with shrink wrap or electrical tape - $0  (Fixes an annoyance and protects antenna)
• Custom receiver holder and easy pull battery holder. - $0

Phase 4 - Improving on stock.

• Aired Tires - $0  (better performance & traction)
• Custom cut stock tires - $0 (poor mans Masher 2000)
• CA Glue tires/rims - $5 (better traction - less tire to rim spin under torque)
• Railing Tie Downs - $0 (Neaten and clean up all loose wiring)
• Adjustable front camber links - $10 (corrects camber alignment issues)

Phase 5 - Spin me right round baby, right round! - (if you don't get that you are too young)

• RPM 5X11 Bearing carriers and stainless steel sealed bearings - $30 (more spin)
• Sticky hub fix - $0  (more spin for free)

Phase 6 - Working on the junk in the trunk.

• Various Pinion/Spur gears - $25
• Differential Repack with heavy grease - $2 (like a limited slip differential.)
• Converted pivot screw on rear shock to a pivot ball - performance and durability
• Jato Rear camber link - performance and durability

Phase 7 - Tumble tumble tumble, crack, gggriiiiinnnnnnndddddd! - check please!

• Nitro Rustler Front Shock Tower - if you see one BUY IT - They are rare.
• Traxxas aluminum idler gear - you Will break the plastic idler, everyone does, but will probably never have another transmission problem after replacing the idler gear with aluminum.

Phase 8 - Danger High Voltage!

• All power connectors upgraded to Deans Plugs - $20 (More Power!)
• All power wires upgraded to Deans 10 Gauge Wire - $5 (More Power!)
• Project Stampede XL-1 ESC upgrade if you are up for it - $0-5 for parts (More Power!)
• Shortened Servo lead - $0  (this just annoyed my why do I need 12" of wire to go 1".)

Phase 9 - Did you smell rubber burning?

• Trinity Pro-Amber 17T Motor - $39 (More Power!)
• Reedy Pro-Ball bearing SV2 everything from the stock to the 15T I have heard are excellent.

Phase 10 - So if a 17 Turn motor will make me go that fast how fast will..., I need a new ESC.

• New ESC Novac - Rooster - Love it, but discontinued consider the XL-10 from Traxxas.
• Another option is the new XL-10 (10 Turn motor limit) ESC. - $75.00
• This is the point where considering and purchasing a re-furbed $160-$170 SS5800 brushless ESC and Motor System from Novak is a very good idea and much cheaper in the long run. Seems like a lot up front but consider you will have $70-80 in a new ESC and another $30-$40 in a decent new brushed motor.  Once you go brushless you will never have to do motor maintenance again.

Phase 11 - Widening the Stance with the Ultra-Pede Wide-Pede Conversion.

• Project Stampede Ultra-Pede Wide-pede conversion - performance
• Project Stampede Front and Rear Shock Braces - performance and durability
• Jato Front Camber links
• Traxxas Nitro Rustler Rear 5 spoke wheels - performance and durability
• Proline - Moab tires (like better than Mashers 2000) - performance and durability
• RPM Lower shock cups - Longer, deeper, and stronger than stock - less likely to break or pop off.

Phase 12 - ...then how fast will a 15 Turn motor make me go?

• Trinity 15 turn Titanite Motor (More Power!)
• Heatsink for motor
• Custom lightened chassis - $0 (Shaved weight but it took time and patience)
• Lowered/Shaved body mounts to lower body.  - $0 (Dremel-ed them down for a lower look)

Phase 13 - ...then how fast will a 13 Turn motor make me go?

• Brushless check out Novak's reconditioned SS5800 or other Novak Online specials.
• Suspension Kingpin e-clip upgrade (insurance against breakage)

Below is my personal history of upgrades.

My Project Stampede Ultra-Pede Upgrades - cost are estimates only

Pre-First Run

• RPM Bumber - $5 (a must have item, if you buy nothing else, buy this)
• Traxxas Aluminum Shock Caps - $10 (Once on - never had a problem)
• Shock Strengthening - Added two Silicon O rings per shock as shock limiters - $0-5 for parts (insurance against breakage)
• 50 wt shock oil - $5 (stiffens up the shocks)
• Shock Pre-load spacers - $0-5 for parts (8mm rear - 4mm front)
• Easy-Pull body clips - $0-5 for parts (stops you from going insane)
• Supercharge that Stocker - $0-5 for parts (just like it says)
• Maintenance Checklist - $0-5 for parts
• Washer backed motor mount - $0-5 for parts

Additional Upgrades/Accessories to Date

• RPM Gear Cover - $5 (insurance against breakage)
• All power connectors upgraded to Deans Plugs - $20 (More Power!)
• All power wires upgraded to Deans 10 Gauge Wire - $5 (More Power!)
• Stock servo gear replaced with Futaba FS-3003 gears - $5 (cheaper than a new servo)
• Trinity Pro-Amber 17T Motor - $39 (More Power!)
• Various Pinion/Spur gears - $25
• Project Stampede XL-1 ESC upgrade - $0-5 for parts (More Power!)
• Easy-Pull battery strap - $0-5 for parts (stops you from going insane)
• Waterproofing ESC, receiver, servo - $0 (insurance against breakage)
• Railing Tie Downs - $0 (Neaten and clean up all loose wiring)
• Adjustable front camber links - $10 (corrects camber alignment issues)
• Custom cut stock tires - $0 (poor mans Masher 2000)
• Pro-Line Sand Paws - $15 (Snow traction)
• Pro-Line Dirt Paw Knobby Tires - $15 (good as fronts in snow and on F/R in loose dirt)
• Floppy Antenna Fix - $0  (Fixes and annoyance)
• Aired Tires - $0  (better performance & traction)
• RPM 5X11 Bearing carriers and stainless steel sealed bearings - $30 (more spin)
• Sticky hub fix - $0  (more spin for free)
• Custom transmission and motor cover - $0  (insurance against breakage)
• Project Stampede Bodies - $0-10 for parts (just for fun)
• CA Glue tires/rims - $5 (better traction - less tire to rim spin under torque)
• Differential Repack with heavy grease - $2 (like a limited slip differential.)
• Trinity 15 turn Titanite Motor (More Power!)
• Custom lightened chassis - $0 (Shaved weight but it took time and patience)
• Custom Lexan front shock tower - (buy the Rustler Nitro Shock Tower instead)
• Custom receiver holder and easy pull battery holder. - $0 
• Shortened Servo lead - $0  (this just annoyed my why do I need 12" of wire to go 1".)
• Shock limiters - $0 used "un-used" shock plungers (prevents chassis bottoming and lengthens shock life)
• Lowered/Shaved body mounts to lower body.  - $0 (Dremel-ed them down for a lower look)
  M'Troniks Sonik4 RV Max 8 Turn ESC - CRAP
• Novac - Rooster - Love it!
• Nitro Rustler Front Shock Tower - if you see one BUY IT - They are rare.
• Traxxas aluminum idler gear.
• Project Stampede Ultra-Pede Wide-pede conversion - performance
• Traxxas Nitro 5 spoke wheels - performance and durability
• Proline - Moab tires (like better than Mashers 2000) - performance and durability
• Project Stampede Front and Rear Shock Braces - performance and durability
• Jato Rear camber link - performance and durability
• Dual Front Camber LInks - performance and durability
• Removed Shock limiters and added dual silicon piston rings on each shock shaft to gently limit shock over travel.
• Converted pivot screw on rear shock to a pivot ball - performance and durability
• RPM Lower shock cups - Longer, deeper, and stronger than stock - less likely to break or pop off.
• Replaced all shock, camber and motor screws with stainless steel machine hex screws.
• Removed Dual Front Camber links and went to a single set of 58mm Jato camber links like the rears.
• New servo saver
• Replaced rear body mount with a modified rear Rustler body mount.
• Used long washer head screws in Rustler body mount kit and swapped out the grub screws and nuts on the front shock tower for the lighter washer head screw.
• Proline Dirt Paw tires with new Traxxas Nitro 5 spoke wheels - improved grip on grass and really soft dirt.
• New dual shunt (dual wire) brushes for Pro Amber 17T Motor with a set of heavy springs and a set of medium springs.
• New set of 30 and 28 tooth pinions to go fast with the stinger motor - we'll see (didn't quite work)
• Associated Heatsink to keep the motor cool even when over gearing - modified heat sink and body to fit.
• Easy off Gear Cover mod - best thing I have done since the easy off battery strap.
• RPM 2 Stage Shock Piston - Kind of a pain to install but so worth it (go with Medium with the 50Wt Oil)
• The Baja-Pede - Cheap Bodywork
• Novak 4.5R GTB Brushless Motor System
• Battery pack Rebuild
• Copied the Swami bar but in ABS. Works great.
  
  Planned Upgrades/Extras
  Suspension Kingpin e-clip upgrade (insurance against breakage)
  ProLine Dirt Works (tires for hard packed dirt or road use)